Kashi, Banaras, Varanasi — a river city of learning and cremation, rebuilt in stone by Maratha patrons in the eighteenth century after centuries of sacking.
Ganges
c. 1200 BC
Kashi
Settlement on the Ganges' west bank.
c. 528 BC
Sarnath sermon
The Buddha teaches nearby.
1194
Sacking
Ghurid armies raze the temples.
1780
Rebuilding
Ahilyabai Holkar raises the new Vishwanath temple.
On Kartik Purnima, fifteen days after Diwali, when the gods are said to come down to bathe in the Ganges, lakhs of clay lamps are lit along the ghats. The festival marks Shiva's victory over the demon Tripurasura; the present custom of lighting every ghat grew from Panchganga Ghat in the 1980s.
Usually in November; check the date. Boats sell out and prices rise steeply, so book weeks ahead and agree the price and route. The ghats are packed from mid-afternoon — take a place early or watch from the water.
A riverside route of roughly 3 km, along ghats rebuilt in stone from the 1700s, passing dozens of the city's 84 ghats on its way to the nightly Ganga aarti.
Time it to finish at Dashashwamedh half an hour before sunset.