Safarnama
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Varanasi

Kashi, Banaras, Varanasi — a river city of learning and cremation, rebuilt in stone by Maratha patrons in the eighteenth century after centuries of sacking.

Ganges

c. 1200 BC

Kashi

Settlement on the Ganges' west bank.

c. 528 BC

Sarnath sermon

The Buddha teaches nearby.

1194

Sacking

Ghurid armies raze the temples.

1780

Rebuilding

Ahilyabai Holkar raises the new Vishwanath temple.

MuseumsBHU campus

Bharat Kala Bhavan

Founded in 1920 with Rabindranath Tagore as first chairman: Mughal and Pahari miniatures, Banarasi textiles, temple sculpture and the city's own maps and manuscripts.

Closed on weekends and university holidays.

2 hrs

MuseumsSarnath

Sarnath Museum

Built in 1910 to hold the finds from Sarnath's excavation, including the Ashokan lion capital of about 250 BC that is now India's national emblem.

Closed Fridays. Bags and phones are left at the cloakroom.

90 min

MuseumsRamnagar

Saraswati Bhawan, Ramnagar Fort

The royal museum inside the 1750 fort of the Kashi Naresh: vintage cars, ivory palanquins, weapons and an 1852 astronomical clock.

Open daily from 10am, but check during Holi and Dussehra.

90 min