Every city has a story

Safarnama is a guide to India's cities that starts with their history. Most guides tell you what to see and eat. This one also tells you why it is there.

Every city opens with a short timeline of four moments that shaped it. A day-by-day itinerary follows, for trips of two to five days, with practical tips along the way. Then come the places, sorted into food and drink, museums, historic sites and walks. Each one says why it matters, where it is, and links to the map. Food entries also give a rough price per person. A longer history closes each city for anyone who wants the full story.

A city is more than a list of sights. Kolkata began as a Company trading post and grew into the capital of British India. Lucknow's food started in the kitchens of the nawabs and moved out into the bazaar. Stories like these explain why a street runs the way it does and why a dish tastes the way it does. Once you know them, an old neighborhood stops being a backdrop and starts to make sense.

Opening hours and prices change often, and some places close on certain days of the week. Please check timings and prices before you go.