Varanasi
Kashi, Banaras, Varanasi — a river city of learning and cremation, rebuilt in stone by Maratha patrons in the eighteenth century after centuries of sacking.
c. 1200 BC
Kashi
Settlement on the Ganges' west bank.
c. 528 BC
Sarnath sermon
The Buddha teaches nearby.
1194
Sacking
Ghurid armies raze the temples.
1780
Rebuilding
Ahilyabai Holkar raises the new Vishwanath temple.
3 days in Varanasi
Day 1 — The river
- Morning
- Subah-e-Banaras at Assi Ghat before sunrise — Vedic chanting, a dawn aarti and classical music — then a rowing boat north past Chet Singh's fort, Harishchandra and Dashashwamedh to the cremation ghat at Manikarnika.Boat along the riverfront · Manikarnika Ghat
- Lunch
- Kachori-sabzi and jalebi at Ram Bhandar in Thatheri Bazaar, a short walk up from the ghats.Ram Bhandar
- Afternoon
- The old-city lanes on foot: Thatheri Bazaar's brass shops, Kachori Gali, and the Kashi Vishwanath Dham corridor down to the river.Old city galis · Kashi Vishwanath Temple
- Dinner
- Tamatar chaat and palak patta chaat at Kashi Chat Bhandar in Godowlia, then a clay-cup lassi at Blue Lassi.Kashi Chat Bhandar · Blue Lassi
- Evening
- The Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat at sunset, watched from the steps or a moored boat.
Good to knowBook the dawn boat the night before with a boatman at Assi (agree the price first). Phones, bags and cameras are not allowed inside the Kashi Vishwanath complex — leave them in the lockers or at your hotel. Arrive at Dashashwamedh 45 minutes before the aarti for a spot.
Day 2 — Sarnath
- Morning
- Sarnath, 10 km north: the Dhamek Stupa where the Buddha gave his first sermon, the ruins of the monasteries, the Ashokan pillar and the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar's murals.Dhamek Stupa, Sarnath
- Lunch
- A simple meal at one of the cafés near the Sarnath bus stand, opposite the archaeological park.
- Afternoon
- The Sarnath Museum for the Ashokan Lion Capital, the original of India's national emblem, then the Chaukhandi Stupa on the drive back.Sarnath Museum
- Dinner
- Baati chokha — roasted wheat balls with smoked aubergine — at the Baati Chokha restaurant in Teliabagh.Baati Chokha
- Evening
- A walk along the quieter southern ghats from Assi to Kedar Ghat as the lamps are lit.
Good to knowThe Sarnath Museum is closed on Fridays. An auto-rickshaw or taxi to Sarnath takes about 40 minutes.
Day 3 — Learning and looms
- Morning
- Banaras Hindu University's campus: Bharat Kala Bhavan's miniatures, textiles and temple sculpture, then the New Vishwanath temple in the middle of the campus.Bharat Kala Bhavan
- Lunch
- Lassi topped with malai at Pahalwan Lassi by the Lanka gate of BHU, then the chaat stalls around it.Pahalwan Lassi
- Afternoon
- Durga Kund's red temple and its tank, the marble Tulsi Manas temple and Sankat Mochan, the Hanuman temple known for its music festival.Durga Kund & Tulsi Manas · Sankat Mochan Temple
- Dinner
- Tamatar chaat at Deena Chaat Bhandar in Luxa, the other famous tamatar chaat counter.Deena Chaat Bhandar
- Evening
- A guided walk through the silk-weaving lanes of Madanpura or Lallapura, where some families still work pit looms.Silk-weaving lanes
Good to knowBharat Kala Bhavan is closed on weekends and university holidays, so do this day on a weekday. Shop for saris with a reputable weaver or cooperative rather than through a guide who takes commission.