Amritsar

Guru Ram Das dug the holy pool and the city grew around it; Amritsar holds Sikhism's golden shrine, the garden where the Raj lost its legitimacy, and some of India's best eating.

Sarovar

1577

The tank

Guru Ram Das founds the city.

1801

Ranjit Singh

The Sikh empire gilds the shrine.

1919

Jallianwala Bagh

A massacre turns the freedom movement.

1947

Partition

The border falls thirty kilometers away.

3 days in Amritsar

2 3 4 5days

Day 1 — The Golden Temple

Morning: The Golden Temple before dawn, when the Guru Granth Sahib is carried in procession (the palki) from the Akal Takht to the Harmandir. Walk the marble parikrama around the sarovar as the gold catches the light, then the Central Sikh Museum at the main entrance.Golden Temple · Akal Takht · Central Sikh Museum
Lunch: Langar in the temple's community kitchen, which serves around 100,000 free meals a day; stay to help roll rotis or wash plates.
Afternoon: Jallianwala Bagh, its walls still marked from the 13 April 1919 firing, then the Partition Museum in the Raj-era Town Hall, both a short walk along Heritage Street.Jallianwala Bagh · Partition Museum · Heritage Street
Dinner: Kulcha, dal and saag at Bharawan da Dhaba, near the Town Hall.Bharawan da Dhaba
Evening: Back to the Golden Temple at night, lit and reflected in the pool, for the closing palki procession (Sukhasan) around 10pm.

Good to knowCover your head (scarves are provided free), remove shoes and socks, and wash your feet at the entrance. The temple is open all night. The Partition Museum is closed on Mondays.

Day 2 — The old city and the border

Morning: Peethi-poori, chole and lassi at Kanha Sweets on Lawrence Road, then a walk through the walled city's katras — the misl-era trading quarters — and Hall Bazaar.Kanha Sweets · Old city katras walk · Hall Bazaar
Lunch: Dal, parathas and phirni at Kesar da Dhaba, in the old city lanes since Partition.Kesar da Dhaba
Afternoon: Drive to the Attari–Wagah border, stopping at Pul Kanjari, Ranjit Singh's baradari and tank near the border, for the flag-lowering ceremony at sunset.Wagah border · Pul Kanjari
Dinner: Amritsari fish at Makhan Fish & Chicken Corner, frying since 1962.Makhan Fish & Chicken Corner
Evening: Tandoori chicken at Beera Chicken House if you have room.Beera Chicken House

Good to knowThe Wagah ceremony is free; arrive at least two hours early in season, carry ID and leave bags in the car. Foreigners have a separate entry. The ceremony time moves with sunset — earlier in winter.

Day 3 — Gobindgarh and Ram Bagh

Morning: The Durgiana Temple, a Hindu temple in a tank built in the style of the Golden Temple, then Ram Bagh, Ranjit Singh's summer garden, and its restored summer palace museum.Durgiana Temple · Maharaja Ranjit Singh Summer Palace Museum
Lunch: Amritsari kulcha with chole and butter at Kulcha Land or All India Famous Amritsari Kulcha.All India Famous Amritsari Kulcha
Afternoon: Gobindgarh Fort: the Toshakhana museum, the Sikh armoury exhibits and the 7D show on Ranjit Singh's empire.Gobindgarh Fort
Dinner: Punjabi food at the fort's dhabas, or butter chicken at Surjit Food Plaza.Surjit Food Plaza
Evening: The light and sound show at Gobindgarh, with Punjabi and English shows after sunset.

Good to knowGobindgarh runs until late, so it works as an afternoon-to-evening visit. Check whether the Ram Bagh museum is open before going; it has had long closures.