Safarnama
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Amritsar

Guru Ram Das dug the holy pool and the city grew around it; Amritsar holds Sikhism's golden shrine, the garden where the Raj lost its legitimacy, and some of India's best eating.

Sarovar

1577

The tank

Guru Ram Das founds the city.

1801

Ranjit Singh

The Sikh empire gilds the shrine.

1919

Jallianwala Bagh

A massacre turns the freedom movement.

1947

Partition

The border falls thirty kilometers away.

Historic SitesOld city

Golden Temple

The Harmandir Sahib, rebuilt after repeated destruction and gilded under Ranjit Singh; its langar feeds tens of thousands daily.

Open all night. Visit at dawn and again after dark; cover your head and remove shoes.

3 hrs

Historic SitesTown Hall

Jallianwala Bagh

The walled garden where General Dyer fired on an unarmed crowd on 13 April 1919; the bullet marks are kept in the brick.

Free entry. Look for the Martyrs' Well and the narrow entrance lane the troops blocked.

45 min

Historic SitesGolden Temple

Akal Takht

The seat of Sikh temporal authority, founded by Guru Hargobind in 1606 facing the Harmandir across the causeway.

Visit during the palki ceremony at dawn or night.

20 min

Historic SitesLohgarh Gate

Durgiana Temple

A Hindu temple rebuilt in 1921 in the style of the Golden Temple, set in its own tank.

Quieter than the Golden Temple; go in the morning.

45 min

Historic SitesGolden Temple

Gurdwara Baba Atal Rai

A nine-story octagonal tower of the 1780s near the Golden Temple, the tallest building in the old city, with murals of Guru Nanak's life.

Two minutes' walk from the temple's southern side.

30 min

Historic SitesGT Road

Khalsa College

An 1892 college built in a grand Indo-Saracenic style, the pride of the Sikh reform movement.

A working campus; see the facade from the gate.

30 min

Historic SitesNear Attari

Pul Kanjari

A bridge, baradari and bathing tank built by Ranjit Singh near the border, with faded frescoes inside.

Stop on the way to the Wagah ceremony.

30 min

Historic Sites25 km south

Tarn Taran Sahib

A gurdwara founded by Guru Arjan in 1590, with one of the largest sarovars in Sikhism.

Visit in the morning; it is about 45 minutes by road.

Half day