Safarnama
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Amritsar

Guru Ram Das dug the holy pool and the city grew around it; Amritsar holds Sikhism's golden shrine, the garden where the Raj lost its legitimacy, and some of India's best eating.

Sarovar

1577

The tank

Guru Ram Das founds the city.

1801

Ranjit Singh

The Sikh empire gilds the shrine.

1919

Jallianwala Bagh

A massacre turns the freedom movement.

1947

Partition

The border falls thirty kilometers away.

Price per person₹ under ₹300₹₹ ₹300–1,000₹₹₹ ₹1,000–3,000₹₹₹₹ over ₹3,000

Food & DrinkChowk Passian, old city

Kesar da Dhaba

Founded in 1916 in Sheikhupura, now in Pakistan, and re-established in the old city after Partition; the dal fry simmers for twelve hours and tastes like it.

Order dal, laccha paratha and the phirni served in clay bowls.

₹

Food & DrinkTown Hall

Bharawan da Dhaba

Serving Amritsari kulcha and sarson da saag beside the temple approach since 1912.

Good for a quick vegetarian lunch near the temple.

₹

Food & DrinkLawrence Road

Kanha Sweets

A sweet shop more than a century old, best known for its breakfast of peethi-poori, chole and lassi.

Breakfast only for the poori; it gets crowded by 9am.

₹

Food & DrinkMaqbool Road

All India Famous Amritsari Kulcha

Crisp, stuffed kulchas baked on the tandoor wall and served with chole and butter.

Get the mixed kulcha; Kulcha Land on Ranjit Avenue is the other favorite.

₹

Food & DrinkMajitha Road

Makhan Fish & Chicken Corner

The 1962 original of Amritsari fish — river fish in gram-flour batter, fried to order.

Evenings are best; order fish and the tandoori chicken.

₹₹

Food & DrinkMajitha Road

Beera Chicken House

A busy roadside restaurant famous for tandoori and butter chicken.

Dinner only; expect a wait.

₹₹

Food & DrinkLawrence Road

Surjit Food Plaza

A family restaurant known for its butter chicken and tandoori dishes.

Good for dinner after the Wagah ceremony.

₹₹

Food & DrinkDhab Khatikan

Ahuja Lassi

A tall, thick saffron lassi topped with butter, one of the city's best-loved lassi shops.

A glass is a meal; share one.

₹

Food & DrinkTown Hall

Gurdas Ram Jalebi Wala

Thick, crunchy Amritsari jalebis fried in desi ghee, served hot.

Eat them hot with rabri.

₹

Food & DrinkGolden Temple approach

Giani Tea Stall

Serving since the 1950s near the Golden Temple, this stall's tea and sweets became a fixture for pilgrims after decades near the shrine's entrance.

A good stop for tea before or after the temple.

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