Safarnama
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Amritsar

Guru Ram Das dug the holy pool and the city grew around it; Amritsar holds Sikhism's golden shrine, the garden where the Raj lost its legitimacy, and some of India's best eating.

Sarovar

1577

The tank

Guru Ram Das founds the city.

1801

Ranjit Singh

The Sikh empire gilds the shrine.

1919

Jallianwala Bagh

A massacre turns the freedom movement.

1947

Partition

The border falls thirty kilometers away.

MuseumsTown Hall

Partition Museum

The world's first museum of the 1947 Partition, in the Raj-era Town Hall — oral histories and refugees' objects.

Closed Mondays. Allow at least 90 minutes; it is emotionally heavy.

90 min

MuseumsGolden Temple

Central Sikh Museum

Paintings of Sikh gurus, warriors and martyrs, with weapons and manuscripts, at the main entrance of the Golden Temple complex.

Free; visit after the morning at the temple.

45 min

MuseumsRam Bagh

Maharaja Ranjit Singh Summer Palace Museum

Ranjit Singh's summer palace in the Ram Bagh gardens, begun in 1819, restored as a museum of the Sikh empire with his Persian military manual and ivory miniatures.

It has had long closures; check it is open before going.

60 min

MuseumsOld cantonment

Gobindgarh Fort

The Bhangi misl's fort, rebuilt by Ranjit Singh between 1805 and 1809, now a heritage complex with the Toshakhana museum, live performances and shows.

Open until late; come for the evening light and sound show.

3 hrs