Through the month of Ramzan the lanes around the Charminar stay awake until near dawn. Haleem — wheat and meat pounded for hours, brought to the Deccan by the Nizams' Arab soldiers — simmers in brick bhattis, and Laad Bazaar sells bangles and attar for Eid.
Ramzan moves about eleven days earlier each year; the last ten nights are the busiest. Go after iftar, from about 8pm. Dress modestly, expect traffic restrictions near Mecca Masjid, and keep valuables close in the crowd.
Through the bazaars and buildings of the 1591 city, from Gulzar Hauz past the Qutb Shahi monuments to Chowmahalla Palace, seat of the Nizams until 1948.
Guided walks run in the early morning, before the heat and traffic.