Safarnama

Ramzan nights in the Old City

Charminar

Through the month of Ramzan the lanes around the Charminar stay awake until near dawn. Haleem — wheat and meat pounded for hours, brought to the Deccan by the Nizams' Arab soldiers — simmers in brick bhattis, and Laad Bazaar sells bangles and attar for Eid.

Ramzan moves about eleven days earlier each year; the last ten nights are the busiest. Go after iftar, from about 8pm. Dress modestly, expect traffic restrictions near Mecca Masjid, and keep valuables close in the crowd.

Time to allow
3 hrs

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