Safarnama
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Hyderabad

Qutb Shahi kings built it in 1591 when the fort at Golconda ran out of water; the Nizams kept it a separate state until 1948.

Musi

1518

Golconda

A diamond-trading sultanate rises.

1591

Charminar

A new city laid out on the Musi.

1724

The Nizams

Asaf Jahi rule begins, lasting 224 years.

1948

Accession

The princely state joins India.

Price per person₹ under ₹300₹₹ ₹300–1,000₹₹₹ ₹1,000–3,000₹₹₹₹ over ₹3,000

Food & DrinkGhansi Bazaar

Shadab

Biryani near the Charminar in the style Persian cooks brought to the Deccan courts, layered raw and sealed under dough.

Order the mutton biryani; very busy at lunch.

₹₹

Food & DrinkCharminar

Nimrah Cafe

Irani chai and Osmania biscuits in the monument's shadow since the mid-twentieth century; the biscuit is said to be named for the last Nizam's own table.

Buy a box of Osmania biscuits to take away.

₹

Food & DrinkShalibanda

Hotel Shah Ghouse

Haleem, a wheat-and-mutton porridge carried here from Yemen by the Nizams' Arab guards, pounded for hours in Ramzan.

Haleem is mainly served in Ramzan; the biryani is good year-round.

₹

Food & DrinkAbids

Grand Hotel

Opened in 1935 by Iranian traders during the Nizam's era, this Abids cafe has served Irani chai and dum pukht biryani for about 90 years.

Good for chai and a samosa in the afternoon.

₹

Food & DrinkBasheerbagh

Cafe Bahar

Founded in 1973 by Iranian immigrant Syed Hussain Bolooki whose family arrived from Iran around 1934, it grew from a tiny Irani cafe into a landmark biryani and haleem destination.

Expect a wait at lunch; the mutton biryani is the order.

₹₹

Food & DrinkSecunderabad

Paradise

Opened in 1953 as a small cinema canteen, now Hyderabad's most famous biryani name.

The original Paradise Circle branch has the most character.

₹₹

Food & DrinkGulzar Hauz, Charminar

Govind Dosa

A street cart near the Charminar making butter-laden dosas and idlis every morning for decades.

Breakfast only; it closes by late morning.

₹

Food & DrinkOld City

Hotel Nayaab

An Old City restaurant known for its breakfast of nihari, paya and khamiri roti.

Go early morning; nihari sells out.

₹

Food & DrinkCharminar

Pista House

The name most associated with Hyderabadi haleem, which won a geographical indication in 2010.

Haleem is best during Ramzan, when stalls serve it late into the night.

₹

Food & DrinkMoazzam Jahi Market

Karachi Bakery

A bakery founded in 1953 by a family who moved from Karachi after Partition, famous for its fruit biscuits.

The Moazzam Jahi Market shop is the original.

₹

Food & DrinkFalaknuma

Adaa, Falaknuma Palace

Hyderabadi royal cuisine in the Taj Falaknuma Palace, the 1893 hilltop palace of the Paigah noble Viqar-ul-Umra.

Book ahead; non-guests can only enter with a dining or tour reservation.

₹₹₹₹