Durga Puja pandal-hopping

North and South Kolkata

Kolkata's biggest festival grew out of the private pujas of zamindar mansions such as Shovabazar Rajbari. From the 1910s neighborhoods began pooling money for public sarbojanin pujas, which grew into thousands of temporary pandals that now work as the city's public art. UNESCO listed it as intangible cultural heritage in 2021.

Dates follow the lunar calendar — usually late September or October — so check this year's. Saptami to Navami are the busiest nights; go after midnight or on a weekday afternoon to avoid the crush. North Kolkata's older community pujas lean traditional, South Kolkata's towards big themed pandals. For the quieter, older side, some rajbari family pujas, such as Shovabazar's, let visitors see the thakur dalan. The Metro usually runs extended hours; wear comfortable shoes and carry cash.

Time to allow

4–5 hrs

When

Late September or October; check this year's dates