Safarnama
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Chennai

Chennai is Madras the port layered over Mylapore the sacred town: Fort St George and its colonial core on one side, the Kapaleeshwarar gopuram and the Pallava shore temples on the other.

Marina

7th c.

Mylapore

Pallava hymns name the Kapaleeshwarar shrine.

1639

Fort St George

The East India Company buys its strip of coast.

1858

Crown rule

The Crown takes Madras over from the Company.

1969

Chennai

Madras state becomes Tamil Nadu; the city later takes its Tamil name.

Historic SitesBeach Road

Fort St George

The 1639 fort from which the East India Company grew an empire, still the seat of the Tamil Nadu government.

Photography restricted; carry ID.

2 hrs

Historic SitesFort St George

St Mary's Church

Consecrated in 1680 inside Fort St George, it is the oldest surviving Anglican church east of Suez and holds the marriage record of Robert Clive.

Look at the old gravestones in the courtyard.

30 min

Historic SitesMylapore

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

The shrine the Pallava saint-poets sang of in the seventh century, rebuilt by the Vijayanagara kings.

Closes midday; visit at dawn or evening. Shoes off.

90 min

Historic SitesTriplicane

Parthasarathy Temple

An eighth-century Pallava temple to Krishna as Arjuna's charioteer, one of the oldest in the city.

Closes midday; dress modestly.

60 min

Historic SitesSanthome

San Thome Basilica

A neo-Gothic church of 1896 built over the tomb of the apostle Thomas, with a small museum beneath.

Visit the tomb chapel and museum below the church.

45 min

Historic SitesGeorge Town

Armenian Church of the Virgin Mary

Founded in 1712 and rebuilt in 1772 by Armenian traders who settled in George Town, this is one of the oldest surviving Armenian churches in India.

Open in the morning; ask the caretaker to see the bell tower.

30 min

Historic Sites60 km south

Mamallapuram

The Pallavas' seventh-century open-air studio: the Shore Temple, Five Rathas and the great bas-relief.

Go early; one ticket covers the Shore Temple and Five Rathas.

Day trip