Safarnama
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Chennai

Chennai is Madras the port layered over Mylapore the sacred town: Fort St George and its colonial core on one side, the Kapaleeshwarar gopuram and the Pallava shore temples on the other.

Marina

7th c.

Mylapore

Pallava hymns name the Kapaleeshwarar shrine.

1639

Fort St George

The East India Company buys its strip of coast.

1858

Crown rule

The Crown takes Madras over from the Company.

1969

Chennai

Madras state becomes Tamil Nadu; the city later takes its Tamil name.

MuseumsEgmore

Government Museum

The 1851 museum complex whose Bronze Gallery holds the finest Chola bronzes outside a temple.

Closed Fridays; start with the Bronze Gallery.

2.5 hrs

MuseumsFort St George

Fort Museum

The Company's own record: letters, coins and portraits inside India's first English fortress of 1639.

Closed Fridays; bring ID.

60 min

MuseumsEgmore

Tamil Nadu Police Museum

Opened in 2021 in the former Commissioner's office used from 1856 to 2013, with police artefacts, weapons and vehicles from the colonial era onward.

Close to the Government Museum.

45 min

MuseumsMuttukadu, East Coast Road

DakshinaChitra

A heritage village of traditional houses from across South India, rebuilt with crafts demonstrations and performances.

Closed Tuesdays; combine with Mamallapuram.

2.5 hrs

MuseumsKovalam

Dr Arun's Vintage Camera Museum

Opened by orthodontist Dr A.V. Arun, a private museum holding a Guinness record collection of thousands of cameras dating back to the 1870s.

On the East Coast Road near DakshinaChitra; call ahead to confirm hours.

45 min

MuseumsMarina

Vivekananda House

The 1842 Ice House, built to store ice shipped from America, where Swami Vivekananda stayed in 1897; now a museum of his life.

Check opening days before going.

45 min