Safarnama
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Mysuru

Mysuru kept what other cities lost: its palace lit by a hundred thousand bulbs, its silk and sandalwood trades, and the memory of Haidar Ali and Tipu Sultan, who nearly stopped the Company here.

Kaveri

1399

The Wodeyars

A chieftain's line takes Mysore.

1761

Haidar Ali

The commander seizes the state.

1799

Srirangapatna

Tipu falls defending his island capital.

1881

Rendition

The Wodeyars return as model princes.

Historic SitesCity center

Mysore Palace

Amba Vilas, rebuilt in Indo-Saracenic style in 1912 after a fire; lit by some 97,000 bulbs on Sunday nights.

Opens at 10am; go early. Illumination on Sundays and holidays around 7pm.

2 hrs

Historic Sites20 km north

Srirangapatna

Tipu Sultan's island capital on the Kaveri, where he fell in 1799 — walls, dungeon, summer palace and tomb.

Daria Daulat Bagh is closed Fridays. Hire an auto-rickshaw to cover the island's sites.

Half day

Historic SitesSouth of the city

Chamundi Hill

The goddess temple above the city, with the colossal Nandi, carved in 1664, partway up the climb.

Climb the steps early morning, or drive up and walk down.

Half day

Historic Sites35 km east

Somanathapura Keshava Temple

A Hoysala temple of 1268 on a star-shaped plinth, carved in soapstone with friezes of elephants, horses and epics.

An easy half-day trip; few crowds.

Half day

Historic SitesAshoka Road

St. Philomena's Cathedral

Neo-Gothic cathedral completed in 1936 under Maharaja Krishna Raja Wadiyar IV, among the tallest churches in Asia, with twin 175-foot spires.

Visit the crypt with its relic of St Philomena.

45 min

Historic SitesKrishnarajasagar

Brindavan Gardens

Terraced gardens below the KRS dam, built in 1932 by the engineer M. Visvesvaraya, with a musical fountain show in the evenings.

Come for the fountain show after dark; it gets crowded on weekends.

2 hrs