Safarnama
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Mumbai

A Portuguese dowry handed to the English crown in 1661, filled in causeway by causeway, then rebuilt in Gothic and Deco by the merchants the mills made rich.

Arabian Sea

1661

Dowry

Bombay passes to the English crown.

1784

Hornby Vellard

The islands begin to be joined.

1860s

Cotton boom

Mills and Gothic public buildings.

1930s

Deco coast

Marine Drive built on reclaimed land.

3 days in Mumbai

01

Day 1 — Fort and Kala Ghoda

Morning
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, then the Fort walk: Flora Fountain, the Asiatic Society steps at Horniman Circle, the High Court, the university's Rajabai Tower and the David Sassoon Library.Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus · Fort heritage walk · David Sassoon Library
Lunch
Berry pulao and sali boti at Britannia & Co. in Ballard Estate.Britannia & Co.
Afternoon
CSMVS (the old Prince of Wales Museum) in Kala Ghoda for Indus seals, Gandharan sculpture and miniature painting, then the Jehangir Art Gallery next door.CSMVS
Dinner
Butter-garlic crab at Trishna, the Kala Ghoda seafood restaurant.Trishna
Evening
The Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace hotel lit up on the harbor, then a drink at Leopold Cafe on Colaba Causeway.Gateway of India · Leopold Cafe

Good to knowBritannia is lunch-only on weekdays and closed Sundays; arrive by 1pm before the berry pulao runs out. CSMT's heritage gallery tour runs on weekdays only.

02

Day 2 — Elephanta and Colaba

Morning
The first ferry from the Gateway of India to Elephanta Island, an hour across the harbor, for the sixth-century cave temples and the great three-headed Shiva.Elephanta Caves
Lunch
Back in Colaba for an Irani lunch at Café Mondegar or Leopold.Leopold Cafe
Afternoon
Colaba Causeway's market, the Afghan Church's spire, and the National Gallery of Modern Art in the domed Sir Cowasji Jehangir Hall.National Gallery of Modern Art
Dinner
Seekh kebabs and baida roti from Bademiya's street grills behind the Taj.Bademiya
Evening
A walk along the Colaba waterfront as the harbor lights come on.

Good to knowElephanta and its ferries are closed on Mondays and the boats can stop in heavy monsoon weather. Take the first boat (about 9am) to avoid heat and crowds; the climb to the caves is about 120 steps.

03

Day 3 — Malabar Hill and Marine Drive

Morning
Banganga Tank in Walkeshwar, then the Hanging Gardens and Kamala Nehru Park for the view of the bay. Visit the F.D. Alpaiwalla Museum, the world's only museum of Parsi Zoroastrian heritage, nearby.Banganga Tank · Framji Dadabhoy Alpaiwalla Museum
Lunch
Gujarati snacks at Swati Snacks in Tardeo — panki, sev puri and khichdi.Swati Snacks
Afternoon
Mani Bhavan, Gandhi's Bombay base, then the National Museum of Indian Cinema on Pedder Road. End at Haji Ali Dargah on its causeway into the sea.Mani Bhavan · National Museum of Indian Cinema · Haji Ali Dargah
Dinner
Pav bhaji at Sardar in Tardeo, the mill-workers' late-night meal.Sardar Pav Bhaji
Evening
Sunset walk along Marine Drive's Art Deco sweep to Girgaon Chowpatty for bhel puri.Marine Drive Deco

Good to knowVisit Haji Ali at low tide, when the causeway is dry. The Alpaiwalla Museum reopened in 2025; check its opening days before going.