Safarnama
← Back to index

Lucknow

Awadh's capital of etiquette and appetite — vaulted imambaras raised as famine relief, kebabs pounded soft as folklore, and the ruined Residency where the empire turned.

Gomti

1722

Awadh's nawabs

Saadat Khan founds the dynasty.

1784

Famine relief

The Bara Imambara rises as a public work.

1857

The siege

The Residency is besieged for nearly five months.

1916

The Lucknow Pact

Congress and the League agree, briefly.

WalksChowk

Chowk heritage walk

Through chikan workshops, attar sellers and kebab carts in the nawabs' own market street, past the Teele Wali Masjid built between 1658 and 1660 under Aurangzeb, to the Gomti.

Go in the morning before the lanes fill.

2 hrs

WalksHusainabad

Husainabad heritage walk

Covering monuments from the Nawabi era spanning 1775 to 1857, this walk links the Naubatkhana drum-house, Rumi Darwaza and Chota Imambara's ornate interiors.

UP Tourism runs a morning heritage walk; book through its website.

3 hrs

WalksCity center

Hazratganj

The 1810 market street, kept in uniform cream and pink since the Raj — the evening promenade called Ganjing.

Go after 6pm when the shops are lit.

60 min

WalksAminabad

Aminabad bazaar

An old, crowded market of chikan, perfume, sweets and street food, laid out under the nawabs and still buzzing every evening.

Watch for pickpockets in the evening crowds; bargain for chikan.

90 min