Safarnama
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Kolkata

A Company trading post of 1690 on three river villages became a colonial capital, a printing and reform powerhouse, and then a city that kept the buildings and changed the argument.

Hooghly

1690

Company post

Job Charnock settles the riverbank.

1772

Capital

Seat of British India for 139 years.

1828

Renaissance

Bengal's reform movement takes hold.

1911

Capital moves

The court departs for Delhi.

MuseumsChowringhee

Indian Museum

Founded in 1814, the oldest museum in Asia — Bharhut stupa railings, a fossil hall and an Egyptian mummy.

Closed Mondays. Start with the Bharhut gallery before the crowds.

2.5 hrs

MuseumsMaidan

Victoria Memorial

Finished in 1921 as imperial monument, now a gallery of Calcutta's own paintings, maps and the record of its revolt.

Galleries closed Mondays; the gardens open early and are good for a morning walk.

2 hrs

MuseumsJorasanko

Jorasanko Thakur Bari

Built in the 1780s by the Tagore family and birthplace of Rabindranath Tagore in 1861, this mansion now houses Rabindra Bharati Museum tracing the Bengal Renaissance.

Closed Mondays. Shoes off inside; photography restricted.

90 min

MuseumsElgin Road

Netaji Bhawan

The Bose family home, from which Subhas Chandra Bose escaped house arrest in 1941, kept as a museum with his room and the Wanderer car he fled in.

Closed Mondays; open late morning to late afternoon.

60 min

MuseumsThakurpukur (Joka)

Gurusaday Museum

Established from the 1930s folk-art collection of civil servant Gurusaday Dutt, this museum preserves over 2,325 rare Bengal folk artefacts including Kalighat paintings and Patachitra.

It is far south of the center; check opening hours before the trip.

75 min

MuseumsBarisha

Sabarna Sangrahashala

Founded in 2005 by the Sabarna Roy Choudhury family, it keeps the family's papers, including those on the 1698 transfer of three villages to the East India Company, and argues against crediting Job Charnock with founding Calcutta.

Small and specialist; best combined with a visit to the family's old Barisha temples.

60 min