Sawai Jai Singh II moved his capital off the hill in 1727 and laid out a city by treatise — wide avenues, walled blocks, and an observatory in the middle of it.
On Makar Sankranti the sky over the old city fills with kites, a pastime the Jaipur court is said to have patronized. For weeks beforehand the bazaar lanes near Hawa Mahal are stacked with kites and spools of manja string.
Held on 14 January (occasionally the 15th). Book a rooftop guesthouse or café in the old city; the day ends with paper lanterns and fireworks. The glass-coated manja cuts hands, so wear gloves if you join in.
Two women's festivals the former royal household still leads. At Gangaur in spring and Teej in the monsoon, an image of the goddess Parvati is carried out of the City Palace's Zenani Deodhi and through Tripolia Bazaar with palanquins, elephants, camels and folk musicians.
Gangaur falls in March or April, Teej in July or August; check the year's dates. Processions leave in the late afternoon — find a spot on Tripolia Bazaar early, or a terrace above it.